For people who track daily life in Tibet, demonstrations of dissent are just a spark away from being reignited.
“Tibet is one of the regions in China where political oppression and religious oppression are at the highest point,” says Nicholas Bequelin, East Asia Director at Amnesty International.
Much of the tension stems from concerns over the influx of Han Chinese — China’s dominant ethnic group — into Tibet.
While this is less than 10% of the population, Han Chinese traders, workers and investors have mainly settled in Lhasa, where they control many businesses and fill better-paying jobs — deepening resentment with Tibetans.
Nearly every shop we visited appeared to be owned by Han Chinese.
The government has invested billions of dollars into transforming the region, focusing on building new infrastructure, schools, and modern medical facilities.
We saw a new multi-lane highway being built between Lhasa and Nyingchi.
As our mini-bus bounced over the existing road — a muddy, potholed mess — we envied what future travelers will drive on: the highway that will cut the nine-hour journey by half.
Many Tibetans are still extremely poor and welcome these improvements. But they have come at a cost. Traditional nomadic ways of life are beginning to disappear.
Others complain that ethnic Tibetans don’t share equally in the benefits.
One afternoon in Lhasa, we left our minders behind during a lunch break, and wandered into some back streets not far from our hotel.
We met a 29-year-old Tibetan laborer who said he had never gone to school. He said he made more money than he used to and his neighborhood has paved roads. However, he complained that his Han co-workers got paid more than he did.
“When we are doing exactly the same work, the Han people get, say 300 kuai, and the Tibetans get 200 kuai,” he said, using the colloquial term for China’s currency.
It’s an example of the dichotomy facing many Tibetans — frustration over Chinese rule combined with a desire for an easier way of life.
Tibetan culture
Many Tibetans also feel their native culture is under threat as the number of Chinese tourists visiting the region’s yak-filled grasslands and snowy peaks
has surged.
Critics say locals are being marginalized, as the Chinese make money hand over fist using Tibetan culture as a selling point.
Western brands are also cashing in on the tourist influx, with new hotels like the InterContinental opening in Lhasa. Five-star hotels
once steered clear of the area, fearful of the backlash from pro-Tibetan groups.
In Nyingchi, our minders took us to a newly built village, which will feature shops and restaurants with Tibetan facades. It’s expected to open soon as a tourist attraction.
A Chinese company built it, and most of the stores that will be renting out space will be Chinese owned.
A Tibetan settlement stood on the site for many years, but villagers were forcibly relocated and given new apartments, according to the government official giving us the tour.
He added that the villagers would be allowed to sell biscuits and tea to the tourists if they wanted.
No space for dissent
CNN also spoke to La Mu, a Tibetan woman who has upgraded her small farmhouse and turned it into a guesthouse for tourists with the help of government subsidies. Government minders hovered behind us and took notes on her answers.
When asked if she thought all the development and Han migration was having a negative effect on Tibetan culture, she would only smile uncomfortably, and said she didn’t know.
Her reticence at speaking openly is quite common in a place where activists say she could be swiftly questioned or jailed for voicing dissent.
Since 2012, Bequelin says upwards of 400 Tibetans have been detained for protesting over the lack of religious freedom and economic inequality — including what some call the illegal Chinese extraction of minerals from lands considered holy to Tibetan Buddhism.
“The lack of space for any dissent, even peaceful, will continue to drive deep resentment within Tibetan society,” he says.